This guide will help you to understand what sewing needles to choose. Schmetz brand has been the best quality on the market for a very long time.
To summarise the below, the thicker the material, the thicker the needle you need and the higher number on the needle, the thicker the needle is. Pay attention to needle type and needle point and ensure it fits your machine.
Soon, you will be able to buy sewing needles here. DOWNLOAD PDF GUIDE HERE or check SCHMETZ WEBSITE
Needle Anatomy
- Butt – topmost end that fits into the machine
- Shank – the thicker part just below the butt
- Shoulder – transition from shank to blade
- Blade – the long shaft of the needle
- Groove – a channel along the blade that guides the thread
- Scarf – indentation behind the eye, for stitch formation
- Eye – the hole the thread passes through
- Point / Tip – the front end of the needle
- Colour Bands – top and bottom bands (on many home needles) indicating type and size
Reading a Needle Package
- Needles are labelled with a type (Universal, Jersey, Stretch, etc.) and a size (e.g. 75/11, 90/14).
- The size reflects the blade diameter (e.g. “75” means ~0.75 mm).
- Many home needles have two color bands:
• Top band = needle type
• Bottom band = needle size - Some needles (Universal, Hemstitch, Double Eye, Quick Threading) only have a single band (size).
How to Choose the Right Needle
A. Match to Fabric & Thread
- Use lighter needles (60, 70) for fine fabrics and threads.
- Use heavier needles (100, 110) for thick or dense fabrics.
- The needle should carry the thread smoothly without shredding or excess friction.
B. Pick the Right Type for the Job
| Needle Type | Size Range (typical) | Use / Fabric Types |
| Universal | 60/8 – 120/19 | All-purpose; works with woven and knits |
| Jersey / Ball Point | 70/10 – 100/16 | For knits and stretchy fabrics |
| Stretch | 65/9, 75/11, 90/14 | For highly elastic fabrics (swimwear, stretch knits) |
| Denim / Jeans | 70/10 – 110/18 | For dense woven fabrics, denim, multiple layers |
| Microtex / Sharp | 60 – 110 | For fine, high-thread-count, delicate or coated fabrics |
| Quilting | 75, 90 | For piecing and quilt layers |
| Embroidery | 75, 90 | For decorative threads, has larger eye, special groove |
| Metallic | 80, 90 | For metallic or “effect” threads |
| Topstitch | 70 – 100 | For decorative topstitching, multiple threads |
| Hemstitch / Wing | 100, 120 | For decorative openwork in loosely woven fabrics |
| Leather | 60 – 110 | For genuine or synthetic leather—uses cutting point |
Also, twin and triple needles exist in many types. Check machine compatibility and spacing.
4. When to Replace a Needle
- Replace the needle every 8 hours of sewing time or at the start of each new project.
- Signs a needle is worn or damaged:
• Frayed or broken threads
• Skipped or uneven stitches
• Fabric puckering or damage
• A “popping” or odd noise while sewing - Quick test: insert needle through old sheer fabric (like tights). If it snags, it’s dull.
5. Colour Coding (Home Needles)
- Many home (130/705 H) needles have two colour bands:
• Upper band = needle type
• Lower band = needle size - Example type codes:
• White → Universal
• Yellow → Stretch
• Orange → Jersey
• Blue → Jeans / Denim
• Purple → Microtex
• Red → Embroidery
• Pink → Metallic - Example size codes (lower band):
• Teal → 60/8
• Light grey → 65/9
• Turquoise → 70/10
• Pink → 75/11
• Orange → 80/12
• Blue → 90/14
• Purple → 100/16
• Yellow → 110/18
• Brown → 120/19 - Not all needles have color bands, especially special or industrial types.
6. Tips & Best Practices
- Double-check needle selection when switching fabrics or threads.
- Use the finest needle that does the job—too large may damage fabric; too fine may bend or break.
- Store needles carefully and label them to avoid confusion.
- If you run into sewing problems (skipped stitches, thread breakage, puckering), change the needle first before adjusting anything else.
DOWNLOAD PDF GUIDE HERE or check SCHMETZ WEBSITE